A Dream Ride Part 1 - Manali to Leh

There are few journeys that change the way you look at fellow travelers or friends. A journey that makes you understand that life is all about exploring more, trusting more, growing more and living each day of your life to the fullest.  For me, this adventurous journey gave me such learning, that I feel no structured team building program or a highly trained consultant would have been able to embed deep in me. 

We were 5 friends (Jessil,Anil aka Bhayya,Vikas aka vikky,Zaheer aka zeddy & Rakesh) on this adventure trip from Manali to Leh on our motorbikes.

Initial discussion start few years back about this trip. Finally this year.. Mission completed. We did so many research, eating everyone’s brain day to day basis, initially only we three were ready, myself, Anil & Vikky, later stage we tempted Zeddy and he also agreed. One lazy Saturday I was chit chatting with Rakesh through Facebook and he suggested a bike trip to GOA on that time I told him our plan, without thinking twice he said.. Jessil I want to join…..

Booked our tickets from Dubai – Delhi (Indigo Airline), Delhi – Manali (Air India), Leh – Delhi (Go Air) and Delhi- Dubai (Jet Airway).

Landed @ Delhi by 9 PM, kept our luggages at the clock room went directly to Radisson to chill out as our flight from Delhi to Manali is @6.30 Am next day. Got back to airport by 2.30 AM after a small exploration and arguing with the stupid cab driver we came to know that our flight got cancelled due to bad weather. Then we decided to proceed to Manali by Road. Our adventurous trip started one day early.

I didn’t sleep much as the driver was throwing the car here and there, there was times it felt like all 4 wheels had come off the road. The horn was being tooted at every movement, turn and animals on the road. As the journey went up to the mountains, the views was amazing. The road seemed to follow the river, I watched it all in fascination. Every thing I saw was a photographer’s paradise, monkeys scattered the roads, rivers flowed over big boulders, pine trees covered the snow tipped mountains. I had a feeling that I will be  sick. I couldn’t help thinking we would fall down the mountain, as the car flew around blind corners, where there was huge drops down. I kept wishing the driver would slow down, with every turn the feeling from deep within my tummy grew.

We had basically three stops during our 16 Hours Journey. Finally we reached manali by 8PM and started our first rain coat hunt. Rakesh reached manali early afternoon, our bikes were ready, we went for our first spin after the dinner. I couldn’t handle the bullet as i was riding a bike after 10 years… but with all the tips and tricks from Vikky and Bhayya I gained my confidence. 

Departure from Manali

It was time to embark upon the epic journey. The journey commenced at around 6 in the morning, our bikes marched towards the Rohtang Pass, Crossing villages by villages, overtaking private and tourists cabs, we were starred by everyone along the roadside. We were ostentatious; looking like hardcore professional bikers, only we knows we are riding after 10 to 20 years , had our first stop after an hour just to chit chat and regroup as zaheer and Rakesh were left behind the convoy, then we had our second stop for breakfast and we could see the long Que towards Rothang Pass.

Beas River

Our First Stop for grouping

Being our first off road trip in the Himalayas, every road - ascent upwards unfolded a lot of surprises- the omnipresent apple trees, the streams which gently flow down the tall mountains creating numerous waterfalls, the green carpet of trees and plants in the valley, the clouds which gently seem to caress the mountain peaks was a “visual” poetry which can be best seen than written. The road from Manali till Rohtang is an ascent and is surrounded by beautiful valleys.

The road condition deteriorated in patches and the small pebbles, mud and big holes greeted us with pleasure. Moving further, soon we were surrounded by spectacular scenes and steep hills. Our convoy paused for a moment to take some snaps.

On the way to Rothang Pass

Traffic Due to Land Slide

The road towards the end is all muddy, a few patched of single way of passage with thousands of tourist travellers queued the road. As we were on bike, we managed to cross them, and everyone looked at us as they were jealous  finally we reached the worst patch on Rohtang road, mud mud and mud. The stretch full of mud and slush. Our bike swung in zig zag motions as we passed; it was a difficult one to manage as a slight slip can lead you to lie on mud or down to the valley. Riding almost at negligible speed, we all crossed it safely and more importantly, without any damage to bike. It seems to be first major challenge till now.

Chill time at Rohtang pass

Rothang Pass , Playing with snow

It was the first glimpse of snow-capped mountains during this trip. we went on to play on snowy mountains. Then we started to trek up the giant mountain range. Stepping up and then tumbling down in a regular fashion, it took the hell out of us to reach to a significant height. We spent a sometime having fun at the top, throwing snow, and watching out the scenic beauty of nature. 

We were too late to proceed for our onward journey. The last part of Rohtang fun came when we decided to tumble down to reach the bottom. Leaving apart these spectacular moments, we decided to begin towards our new destination – Keylong.

As we were leaving Rohtang, nature again also started weeping. It was pouring down heavily and the cold breeze started to freeze us. As we proceed further, the mud and slush welcomed us again. But this time we had a good experience to cross it over. Moving downhill, we crossed all the landslides and slippery road. The journey beyond Rohthang was suddenly silent- the only noise we could hear was the air rushing against the mountain or the tip – tap of the melting snow or the screech of the car tyre on the road, Very soon the green valleys and mountains were replaced by shred of brown and rust and the snow peaks lingered in the background. Driving along the Bhaga River and listening to its different notes transformed us into a different world. We could see many water falls with water trickling away under the sheets of snow above, valleys capped with snow, Rocky Mountains painted green by wild grass and flowers..... 

And we stopped  for lunch and waited for our support car for 2 hours, they got stuck In the traffic. And Police were not allowing us to Pass the check post without showing the Pass but our great Vikky bhai managed to negotiate with the cops and got us Permission to travel. Filling up our tanks and extra gallons at Tandi, the last petrol pump on the way,before we reach the Leh about 365KM. Then we make ourselves to Keylong, waited again for the support car for some time, since we know the name of our pre booked accommodation we all decided to head to Jispa and look for the hotel.

It was an unforgettable experience at the hotel, all of us were shivering, our rain coat didn't help us we all were wet and tired, after an hour we got our luggage from the Car, took hot shower and then Myself and vikky decided to go to Keylong (about 28KM from Jispa) to look for a rain coat for the next day since the shop keeper has given us snow suit instead of rain suit, Even after wearing the snow suit we got wet , and we came back after 3 hours and all were worried and tensed.

I fell sick with lower temperature, Bhayya hesitate to move out of the Bed. Zeddy was busy competing himself to finish all the cigarette, vikky bhai was busy in his own world and enjoying BABAJI KA BOOTI. 

Decided to start the trip at 7.00 as we have to ride more than 200KM next day. But only Zeddy woke up. Rest of the lions were roaring.

Good Morning Jispa

We all woke up quite late, thanks to previous day tiredness, sickness and a picturesque location. Having our breakfast, we all began our giant bag packings. And started the ride about 9.30. , clear blue sky no rain at all, we fold the rain coat which we brought yesterday and started our journey.  Initial ride was fun. We all were zooming at the speed between 60 to 80 KMPH

Ready for second day @ Jispa

We were greeted by a small yet posh village called “Sissu”. The entire village of sissu was buried due to a land slide during 1960s which killed everyone except a few who has rebuilt this village to its past glory. The view from this village is very pleasing as it is entirely surrounded by mammoth mountains, a huge waterfall, a lake and garden like fields.

A couple of kilometers ahead is the famous Bara-lacha-la (also known as Bara-lacha Pass, el. 4890 m./16,040 ft.) – one of the highest motorable passes in the world. 

Trying to make a snow man

Barlacha Pass

 As the road unwinds towards Baralacha La, you can feel the difference in the landscape. Gone are the lush valleys and enter the brownish hue on mountains. Its difficult to spot a tree en route here, although a rivulet loyally follows u. It’s amazing how sharply nature takes you through the stark changes in landscape. As we cross our second pass – Baralacha-La at 4930 meters, the only others on the road with us are enthusiastic bikers, cyclists and some cars travelling to Leh.

We took a few photos of this place and headed to a small village of 20 people called Bharathpur  by then I missed the rest of the gang due to miss communication. Had a small accident and Indian army came to help me. Great guys, salute to them. I was worried, many stupid thoughts were going thru my mind, I couldn’t ride the bike, our tour guide took over the wheel’s from me and continue to Serchu, expecting I can find rest of our ganag there. We stopped at serchu and asked all the shop keepers for rest of the team, But it was a real disappointment. I was tensed, worried and more over exhausted. Next police check point again we checked, even they said the rest of the gang has not passed thru. Many stupid thoughts started coming in to my mind……..I have no words to explain what I went thru that time in that situation at that location, where you hardly find someone to help you out in case of emergency.

Support car driver consoled me saying we will catch the gang at Pang, we started from serchu to Pang enroute we had to cross the 3rd high pass en route- Nakee la. At 4965 meters the drive to Nakee la is a drive that drives you crazy-quite literally. The roads that lead to Nakeela are called Gata Loops-21 loops which are steep, blind and very very sharp. Its even crazier when you have a driver who knows the short cuts to avoid the loops! 

A few bends up the road, he pulled up at a spot which was, frankly, an eyesore in the middle of the pristine landscape. There was a pile of plastic mineral water bottles dumped in the middle of nowhere, with a small temple, a flag fluttering atop, sitting amidst the trash.

Then, I noticed that all the bottles were full 

Gata Ghost

Years ago, it seems, a truck broke down on the same bend. The driver, mindful of the cargo he was carrying, told the cleaner to stay with the truck while he walked to the nearest village to get help. Off he went, trudging the forty kilometers of mountain roads that separated him from in-habitation.

He got there, totally spent, to find no help in sight. A storm on another pass had closed the road, there were no mechanics to be found in the tiny village and, even as the driver waited, the weather closed in. He was stranded in the village for over a week before a mechanic and a vehicle came by. By the time the party reached the truck, they found the cleaner dead, felled by exposure and thirst, high on the bone-dry mountainside. Rather than carry a decomposing body home, the rescuers buried it close by.

Then, things started happening. Travelers stopping on the loops started meeting a man who begged them piteously for water. People who refused were soon writhing with mountain sickness, and some even died of it. Those who obliged, though, saw the bottles they offered drop through the man’s hands, while he kept pleading for water. Terror struck the region and only subsided when the locals set up a memorial at the site and made offerings of water to placate the ghost.

So saying, our driver picked up a bottle of water, leaned across and threw it onto the pile before the memorial. As I pulled out my camera and made to open the door, he put a restraining hand on my arm.

“Just take a quick shot from where you’re sitting,” he said, quietly.

On the way to Nakeela

Gata Loops

No one stops unnecessarily on the Gata Loops.After this kind of a drive up, you hardly realize when you reach Nakee la. Somehow, this pass is often ignored by most travelogues, though it has a very interesting drive upto it! The road from Nakee la to the 4th pass i.e. Lachung La (5079 meters) is fairly plain. The sights now seem familiar and somewhat monotonous.Finally with all stupid thoughts we reached Pang and I saw Anil bhai, and I thank god for keeping them safe and sound and I burst it out with tension, anger,happy&pain.After the Tea Break we continued our journey to Taskore lake where we have pre booked accommodation.

A night which we will never forget ooops… sorry …….To forget we don’t remember that night at all.......

Pang

Good Morning Taskore

With great difficulty we managed to get out of the bed, had breakfast forcefully as our taste buds are gone for tosses and  I was not able to walk, with support of the rest of the gang we moved out from Taskore to Leh.

The lull before the storm – The saying describes it all. After Pang we are flying in Moore plain. Plain road touching the sky at horizon, mountains, dust, not a single visible bird The physical and mental exhaustion didn’t allow us to take a snap of these landscapes. 

Taskore Camp Site

The Untold story – Tanglang – la

The drive from Taskore Lake to the final and fifth high pass of the journey (phew!) to Tanglang La is via the Morey Plains. Morey plains are at an average height of 4000 meters, but sudden flat land confuses you, making you feel you are at a much lower altitude! Surrounded by mountains, these plains do not have a designated road. One can drive through anywhere in the plain-albeit in the right direction. The bikers/car drivers indulge in some thrill seeking here, through informal dirt races as you keep driving towards Leh! But the drive is safe and the scenery- a welcome change.  After this refreshing drive of about an hour, After Moore plain, the condition is worst. There is no road at all. We are driving in sand, what seems to be a desert. The long stretch of road, zig zag motion of bike, dusty storm, shining sun, endless headache are some of the adjectives to describe this situation. And it’s time for the ascent again towards Tanglang La! 

After weathering the storm, it is time to enjoy the fruit. The gradual descent brings us down to Upshi. The thoughts are still sailing through the experience of last few hours. Some feelings can’t be described in words, this day is one of them. Moving ahead, we were on a flat surface , riding through the picturesque landscapes. The route from Upshi to Leh presents few spectacular wallpapers. Snow-capped mountains on one side, colorful rocks on the other, green valley along the road side with an adjoining river – all these happens only in a movie. But we were right there – in the lap of nature. The mighty Indus river is now our travel companion. then felt like a distant dream!

Leh – Here we come!!

Past fields of white stupa's and the occasional prayer wheel we arrived at Thiksey. The town's monastery could be seen on a high hill. A stunning site, trail took us to the parking lot below the complex and from there an arched entrance welcomed us into the lovely monastery. As we continued on, to the left was a rectangular structure housing a restaurant, a museum and a souvenir store., We visited the assembly hall first and were struck by the ancient murals on its walls, the lovely golden thrones for the head Lamas and the fabulous idols of Buddha, Maitreya, Manjushri and other Boddhisatvas in the inner sanctum.

Thiksey Monastery

Milestone is about to reach. We were riding high. About to enter the Paradise on Earth- Ladakh. Few miles before that, military camps gives a proud feeling of patriotism.

The sun is down at horizon, we were high in the sky. Feeling the success, we entered Leh around 5PM @ our Pre Booked accommodation. Still a lot of thought was sinking us. We all made it. We all finally did it!!

Manali-Leh journey has extreme reactions from people who have undergone the experience.  Some hate it! But most love it!

Would I take the road again???- Definitely! But at that time, I’ll figure in a couple of more days, infact 6 days instead of 3 days I am still memorised by the images of the valley. The road trip tested me mentally and physically. I was overwhelmed in a spiritual kind of way. I was thankful that my back survived the rubble roads and bumps for the 3 days.  I was thankful my mind allowed me to soak in the landscapes fully, in the varying oxygen levels. When I look back at it, it serves as my personal benchmark of endurance-physical or mental till date.

This “high”way is a must-do for a true nature lover, a photographer, a bike/SUV enthusiast, an adventurist or a person who has a little bit of all these. All you need is a strong back, lots of water and ….some faith and hope!!

Rightly said – nothing ventured, nothing gained!! And we gained unforgettable memories to cherish all through out our life!!

Let me tell you one thing, the trip is not over yet. Next post will be from Leh to – Pangkok Lake and Khardhungla Pass ….

Happy road trippin’!

Did you like this post? Do you need any help in planning a trip to Leh? You are welcome to write to me @ j.alakkal@gmail.com